Ecuador
Tagus Cove, Isabela Island
Tagus Cove, Isabela: Old Ship Names and a Crater Lake
Isabela is the largest of the Galápagos Islands, bigger than all the others put together, and it formed where six shield volcanoes merged. Tagus Cove lies on the western slope of one of them, Volcán Darwin, in a volcanic cone whose wall has broken open and let the sea in. Cold, nutrient-rich water welling up along Isabela's west coast feeds fish, whales, dolphins and seabirds, so keep an eye on the water.
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A Guided Landing
Visits to Tagus Cove are made only with a naturalist guide authorized by Galápagos National Park. A visit can include a short, steep walk ashore past Darwin Lake and a dinghy ride along the cliffs of the cove.
- Darwin Lake, beside the trail, fills a tuff cone. It is about 9 meters deep and holds salt water.
- The names of visiting ships are written on the cliffs along the shore; among the oldest are the Phoenix, in 1836, and the Genie, in 1846.
- Isabela has fewer than 2,000 residents, and most of them live in Puerto Villamil on the south coast, far from here.
- The cove is also a dive site, with sea horses, sponges and corals.
- Visits ashore are allowed only in daylight, between 6:00 and 18:00, and the national park sets every boat's itinerary.
- A naturalist guide leads no more than 16 visitors at a time.
Visiting Rules
Tagus Cove is part of Galápagos National Park, so an authorized naturalist guide leads every visit and the park's rules apply from the moment you land.
- Keep to the marked trail and follow the signs.
- Stay at least two meters from every animal, even one that walks toward you, and never feed wildlife.
- Switch off your flash when photographing animals.
- Do not bring food, plants or animals into the islands.
- Smoking and fires are not allowed anywhere in the park, and all rubbish goes back to the boat with you.
- Do not buy souvenirs made from black coral, shells, lava rock, animal parts or native wood.
A Brief History
Tagus Cove gave pirates, buccaneers and whalers a sheltered anchorage, and Charles Darwin came ashore close by. The island around it has carried several names.
- 1684: The English buccaneer Cowley named the island Albemarle, after the Duke of Albemarle.
- 1813: Volcán Darwin, on whose slope the cove lies, last erupted.
- 1814: The British warship Tagus called here in search of giant tortoises, and the cove took its name.
- 1 October 1835: Darwin landed near Tagus Cove, explored Beagle Crater and saw his first Galápagos land iguanas.
- 1836 and 1846: The crews of the Phoenix and the Genie left some of the oldest names that can still be read on the cliffs.
- 1892: The island was renamed Isabela, after Queen Isabella I of Castile, who supported Columbus.
- 1893: Antonio Gil, from Guayaquil, founded Puerto Villamil and the highland village of Santo Tomás in the south of the island.
- 2004 to 2006: Project Isabela removed goats and donkeys from northern Isabela, and its vegetation has been recovering since.
- To learn more ashore: The Charles Darwin Research Station stands on Academy Bay in Puerto Ayora, on Santa Cruz Island. It is the base of the Charles Darwin Foundation, which also has an office on Isabela.
Tagus Cove with Children
Tagus Cove mixes a climb with a boat ride, so it suits children who can manage a short, steep path.
- Younger children: From the dinghy, look along the cliffs for Galápagos penguins and other seabirds.
- School age: Read the ships' names and dates on the rocks, and count the land birds along the trail: finches, Galápagos hawks and yellow warblers are all found here.
- Teenagers: Darwin came ashore nearby in 1835 and saw his first land iguanas. Ask your guide how a flooded volcanic cone became a sheltered cove.
Accessible Travel
The walk at Tagus Cove is short but steep, and Galápagos landings can be slippery and trails rocky. That makes the walk difficult for people with mobility or balance problems.
- If the climb is too much, ask whether you can join only the boat part of the visit.
- Ask your boat before booking how the crew helps passengers in and out of the dinghy.
- Bring a hat, water and sun protection.
- Travel health insurance is mandatory for foreign visitors to the Galápagos, so check that your policy covers the islands.
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