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Spain

Santa Cruz De Tenerife, Spain

Santa Cruz de Tenerife: Canary Islands Capital, Unhurried and Genuine

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The Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África is the most visited site in the city and earns it. A covered market complex built in the 1940s, it houses fruit and vegetable stalls on the ground floor, meat and fish vendors deeper in, and a floor of small restaurants and snack counters above. The tropical fruit selection — papaya, mango, cherimoya — is outstanding and noticeably cheaper than mainland Spain. Go before noon for the freshest selection.

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Auditorio de Tenerife is the architectural landmark — a swooping concrete shell designed by Santiago Calatrava on the waterfront south of the cruise terminal. You can walk to it in about fifteen minutes. The exterior is free to view; performances inside require tickets. It is one of the more genuinely striking modern buildings in the Canary Islands.

Teide National Park is the main reason to hire a driver or join an excursion from Santa Cruz. The volcano — Spain's highest peak at 3,718 meters — dominates the center of Tenerife and is visible from the city on clear days. The park itself takes about forty-five minutes to reach by car. The cable car to the summit requires a permit reserved in advance; the park viewpoints at 2,300 meters are accessible without one and still dramatic. Budget a full day for this.

The old city center is compact enough to walk. Calle del Castillo is the main pedestrian shopping street. Plaza de España and the adjacent Plaza de la Candelaria are the civic center. The Iglesia de la Concepción — Tenerife's oldest surviving church, heavily damaged in the 1706 volcanic eruption and rebuilt in a mix of Baroque and Canarian styles — is worth a look on the walk between the two squares.

December through March is carnival season and the Santa Cruz Carnival is among the largest in the world, rivaling Rio in scale and intensity. If your sailing coincides, expect crowds and an exceptionally energetic city.

Good to know

Overview

Cruise ships berth in the harbor of Santa Cruz itself, a busy port that also handles container ships and tankers and can take five large cruise ships at once. Plaza de España, the main square, stands on the site of the old harbor castle and is the natural place to start a day ashore.

  • The city is a regular stop for ships crossing between Europe and the Caribbean.
  • Spanish is the language you will hear in the streets, and English is understood mainly around tourist sights, hotels and restaurants.

Santa Cruz on Your Own

Santa Cruz is a city to explore on foot, with its main square, churches, market and parks close together, and a tram for one longer ride up to La Laguna. Mind the clock: the Canary Islands keep a different time from mainland Spain.

  • Plaza de España: The city's largest square has a lake-like fountain at its center. Remains of the San Cristóbal castle, built from 1575 to 1577 to guard the bay, were found under the square and can be visited through a tunnel.
  • The founding cross: The Church of the Immaculate Conception holds the cross that Alonso Fernández de Lugo planted when his troops landed in 1494.
  • Market and park: La Recova, the covered market on Avenida de San Sebastián, is a morning market, so go early. García Sanabria Park, on the Rambla, has fountains and a floral clock given to the island in 1958.
  • One longer ride: Tram line 1 runs from the bus station up to San Cristóbal de La Laguna, the island's old capital, whose center is a World Heritage Site.
  • Watch the clock: The Canary Islands are one hour behind mainland Spain all year. If your ship came from mainland Spain or the Mediterranean, check whether the all-aboard time is in ship's time or island time.
  • Getting back on time: All-aboard is usually about 30 minutes before sailing, and your ship posts the exact time. A ship will not wait for passengers touring on their own.

Getting Around

Santa Cruz has two tram lines and TITSA buses, which the islanders call guaguas. The tram does not take cash, so buy a ticket at the machine on the platform or use a rechargeable card.

  • Both tram lines run between Santa Cruz and La Laguna, and line 1 starts at the bus station.
  • Every tram stop has a ticket machine, and a rechargeable paper card sold at tram stations also works on the island's buses.
  • The ten+ travel card works on both buses and trams. Tap it when you get on and off a bus, and only when you board the tram.
  • TITSA buses cover the whole island, with fewer services at weekends.
  • Some taxi drivers on Tenerife have overcharged visitors, so keep an eye on the meter.

Food and Drink

Canarian cooking leans on fish, stews and grilled meat, and Santa Cruz has plenty of everyday restaurants serving it. The barraquito, a layered coffee, is the island's own café order.

  • A barraquito is made with condensed milk, espresso and a shot of Licor 43, and comes in a small glass.
  • Ropa vieja, a Canarian dish of shredded meat, is one to try.
  • Grilled fish and roasted meat are common, and stews of all kinds are cheap.
  • Guachinches are country taverns that pour their own wine with home-cooked food; they are typical of the Canary Islands and particularly common on Tenerife.
  • Dorada is one of the beers brewed on Tenerife.

Tipping and Currency

Tipping is not mandatory in Spain, and no one will expect a large one. Leaving small change is common, and in a better restaurant 5 to 10 percent is a kind gesture if the service was exemplary.

  • Service charges are not added to the bill.
  • Some taxi drivers ask foreign passengers for a tip, but you do not have to give one.
  • Prices are in euros.

Culture and Customs

Santa Cruz has a very local population, and outside the tourist sights you will mostly hear Spanish. People from the city are known by the nickname chicharreros, after the cheap fish, the chicharro, that its poorer harbor families once ate.

  • Many smaller shops close for a few hours in the afternoon, and most shops close on Sundays and public holidays.
  • The carnival, held each February, is one of the world's largest and fills the streets for more than a week.
  • Calatrava's Auditorio de Tenerife, on the seafront, is the most photographed building in the city.

A Brief History

Santa Cruz began as the camp of the Castilian conquest of Tenerife in 1494 and grew around its port. It faced repeated English and British raids, beat off Nelson's attack in 1797, and became the capital of the Canary Islands in the 19th century.

  • Before the conquest: This corner of Tenerife belonged to the Guanche kingdom of Anaga, the easternmost on the island.
  • The landing, 1494: On 3 May 1494 Castilian troops under Alonso Fernández de Lugo came ashore here and set up the military camp that became the city. The capital of the conquered island was first placed at La Laguna.
  • A harbor town: The first wharf was built in 1548, and the bay became a supply stop for ships sailing to the Americas.
  • Castles against raiders: The San Cristóbal castle was built from 1575 to 1577 to defend the bay against pirates and privateers.
  • English and British raids: In 1657 an English squadron under Robert Blake destroyed a Spanish treasure fleet in the bay, and a British squadron under John Jennings failed to take the town in 1706.
  • Nelson, 1797: Rear-Admiral Horatio Nelson's attempt to storm the harbor in July 1797 failed, and he lost his right arm before he could step ashore.
  • The capital, 1833 to 1927: Santa Cruz was the sole capital of the Canary Islands for nearly a century, until the islands were split into two provinces and the title was shared with Las Palmas.
  • A modern city: Plaza de España was laid out over the castle site in 1929, the carnival was declared a Fiesta of International Tourist Interest in 1980, and the Auditorio de Tenerife was built between 1997 and 2003.
  • To learn more ashore: The Museum of Nature and Archaeology on Calle Fuente Morales holds the largest collection of Guanche objects, where the story of the island before 1494 is told.

Traveling With Children

A family day in Santa Cruz works well as a walk between the city's parks and squares, with a seawater pool complex or a beach for the afternoon. Distances are short, and the tram helps tired legs.

  • Younger children: García Sanabria Park has fountains and the floral clock, and Plaza de España's large fountain is in the center of town.
  • The Palmetum: This botanical garden of about 600 palm species sits on a hill by the sea, with streams, ponds and waterfalls. It was built on an old landfill and opened in 2014.
  • School age: The castle remains under Plaza de España, reached through a tunnel, and the Guanche collection at the Museum of Nature and Archaeology both suit children who like history.
  • A swim: The Parque Marítimo César Manrique, next to the Palmetum, has seawater pools set among volcanic rock and palms, and a small artificial beach. There are no lockers and pickpockets work there, so bring only what you need.
  • Teenagers: The tram ride up to La Laguna and a walk through its old streets make a half day of their own.

Accessibility

The tram is the most accessible way to get about Santa Cruz: the operator holds a Spanish certification for universal accessibility. Elsewhere, plan around slopes and older streets.

  • Both tram lines, including the ride up to La Laguna, are covered by the accessibility certification.
  • The Palmetum is laid out on an artificial hill, so expect slopes.
  • The castle remains under Plaza de España are reached through a tunnel; ask on site about access.
  • Ask your ship whether a shuttle runs from the berth into town before you set out.

Markets and Shopping

La Recova, the covered market on Avenida de San Sebastián, is the place to see what the island grows: fruit, vegetables and flowers sold to locals rather than tourists. Go in the morning, because it closes in the early afternoon.

  • The market building dates from 1943.
  • A large flea market is held on Sunday mornings near the bus station.
  • The city has two El Corte Inglés department stores, and larger shopping centers lie on the outskirts.
  • Many smaller shops close for a few hours in the afternoon and on Sundays.

Beaches

Santa Cruz is a port city rather than a beach town, so its main beach is outside the center. San Andrés, one of the oldest settlements on Tenerife, has a large beach of white sand that was brought from the Sahara to create it.

  • San Andrés lies outside the city center but within the municipality.
  • Closer in, the Parque Marítimo César Manrique has seawater pools and a small artificial beach.
  • The sea around Tenerife is warm enough to swim in all year.

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