Vietnam
Hoi An
Hội An: An Old Trading Port on the Thu Bồn River
Western traders once knew Hội An as Faifo, and its old town still has the narrow merchants' houses, Chinese assembly halls and covered footbridge of a trading port. The rainy season runs from September to January, and floods can reach parts of the old town, so pack for rain late in the year.
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A Stay on Land
On these itineraries Hội An is not a port of call: the river-cruise programs that include it make it a stay of a few nights on land, between northern Vietnam and the Mekong. The nearest airport is at Da Nang, about 45 minutes away by road.
- Entering the old town's streets is free, and a ticket is needed only to go inside the historic sites.
- Motorbikes are kept out of the old town at set hours of the day, but watch for them even in the narrowest lanes.
- Hội An lies on the Thu Bồn River, and Cửa Đại, the nearest beach, is about 5 km from town.
Hội An on Your Own
An independent day in Hội An can follow a simple pattern: the old town on foot in the morning, a bicycle ride to the countryside or the beach in the afternoon, and the river in the evening. Your program's transfer times are the only fixed points.
- On foot: Trần Phú Street runs from the Japanese Covered Bridge past most of the Chinese assembly halls. Bạch Đằng Street runs along the riverbank, and Nguyễn Thái Học Street is another of the old town's main streets.
- By bicycle: Bicycles are easy to rent, and traffic around Hội An is light, so cycling out to the rice fields or to the beach is straightforward.
- On the river: Touts offer short boat rides near the river in the evening, with a paper lantern to set on the water. Agree the price before you board, and insist on life jackets.
- Longer trips: Book a car through your hotel or with a ride-hailing app such as Grab, and check that the car and driver match the booking.
- Back to your group: Note the meeting time and place your program gives for each transfer, and allow for crowds in the old town on weekend and holiday evenings.
Getting Around
Inside the old town you walk, and beyond it bicycles, taxis and ride-hailing cars cover most trips. Da Nang, with its airport and main railway station, is the nearest transport hub.
- Trains do not run into Hội An, and only some stop at the closest station, so most rail journeys start in Da Nang.
- Electric buggies work as taxis around the center, with their fares posted in the front window.
- Riding a motorbike in Vietnam carries a high risk of accidents, and many travel insurance policies do not cover it.
- Seasonal floods in central Vietnam, most often in October and November, can disrupt road travel.
Food in Hội An
Hội An has dishes of its own, and the best known is cao lầu: firm rice noodles with sliced pork, fresh herbs and only a splash of broth. Expect to pay more, and get less, in the tourist restaurants of the old town than at local places farther out.
- Cao lầu noodles are soaked in lye water, which gives them their chewy texture and brownish color. Local legend holds that the water must come from the old Bá Lễ well, which is why the dish is rarely found outside Hội An.
- Mì Quảng, from the same region, is a bowl of wide rice noodles over herbs, with meat and a little broth colored with turmeric.
- White rose dumplings are small shrimp dumplings made from translucent dough and gathered to look like a rose.
- The Central Market at 19 Trần Phú Street has a food court where stalls sell Hội An specialties alongside everyday Vietnamese dishes.
Tipping in Vietnam
Vietnamese people do not usually tip, and visitors are generally not expected to, although a tip will not be refused. Some places that cater mainly to Western tourists do expect one.
- Vietnam's currency is the dong (VND). Prices are sometimes shown in US dollars, but payment is almost always expected in dong, especially outside the main tourist areas.
Culture and Local Life
Hội An's old town mixes Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese building styles. Around each full moon, on the evenings of the 14th and 15th days of the lunar month, the old town goes motorbike-free, and lanterns, flowers and candles mark a festival honoring the ancestors.
- The Chinese communities named their assembly halls after their home regions, including Fujian, Canton, Hainan and Chaozhou, and most of them stand on Trần Phú Street.
- The Quan Công Temple, at 24 Trần Phú Street, honors the Chinese general Guan Yu and was long a religious center for the town's merchants.
- The old houses are narrow and deep, with wooden frames and brick side walls, a design suited to the hot climate and frequent floods.
- Some old houses are still lived in by the families who own them and can be visited, such as Tân Kỳ at 101 Nguyễn Thái Học Street.
- The Japanese Covered Bridge, a footbridge with a small temple on it, was pictured on a 20,000-dong banknote issued in 2006.
A Brief History
For many centuries Hội An was a trading port, first for the Cham and then for Vietnamese lords who encouraged foreign trade. When its river mouth silted up in the 19th century, trade moved to Da Nang, and the old town was left largely as it was.
- Before the Vietnamese: People of the Sa Huỳnh culture lived along the old sand dunes of the Thu Bồn River, and Han dynasty coins found at their sites point to trade as early as the 1st century BC.
- The Cham port: In the Kingdom of Champa, Hội An was the commercial capital, while Mỹ Sơn was the spiritual capital and Trà Kiệu the political one.
- 1471: The Vietnamese emperor Lê Thánh Tông annexed Champa, and Hội An passed under Vietnamese rule.
- The Japanese quarter: Between 1604 and 1635, 75 of the Japanese merchant ships trading in Southeast Asia put in at Hội An, and a Japanese quarter had formed by 1617.
- The Chinese take over: As Japan turned inward again, the Japanese presence faded, and Chinese merchants, many of them refugees from the fall of the Ming dynasty, came to run the port.
- 1775: During the Tây Sơn rebellion, Trịnh forces took Quảng Nam and destroyed much of the commercial district, sparing only the religious buildings.
- 19th century: Most of the houses and halls standing today took their present form in this century, even as silt closed the river mouth to large ships and, after Da Nang became a French concession in 1888, many Chinese merchants left for the new port.
- Saving the old town: The Polish conservation architect Kazimierz Kwiatkowski campaigned to preserve Hội An, and a monument to him stands on Trần Phú Street.
- 1985 and 1999: Vietnam classified the old town as a national cultural heritage site in 1985, and UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site on December 12, 1999.
- To learn more ashore: The Museum of Hội An History and Culture, on Nguyễn Huệ Street close to Trần Phú Street, is housed in a former temple and shows Sa Huỳnh pottery, Cham bricks and early 20th-century photographs of the town.
Hội An with Children
Hội An gives children a lot to look at in a small area, and the countryside and the beach are a short ride away. The heat is the main thing to plan around.
- Younger children: Keep walks short. The old town covers only about 2 square kilometers, so a café or the riverbank is never far away.
- School age: At the Thanh Hà pottery village, about 3 km from the old town, potters still shape their pieces by hand and with a foot pedal, without molds.
- Teenagers: A cooking class shows how dishes such as cao lầu are made, and several restaurants and cooking schools in town offer them.
- Beach time: An Bàng Beach, a few kilometers north of the old town, is known for relatively calm water.
- Heat: June to August is the hottest time of year, when daytime highs can reach 38 °C, so keep long walks for the morning and the evening.
Shopping and Tailors
Hội An is known for made-to-measure clothing, with around 400 tailor shops, and most can finish a simple garment within a day. If you are in town for several days, order on the first day so there is time for a fitting and changes.
- Expect to leave a deposit of about a quarter of the price before work starts, and do not count on a refund if the result disappoints.
- Ordering one item at a time and getting quotes from more than one shop keeps the risk low.
- Silk lanterns and silk goods fill the old town's shops, and the brass bells and gongs sold as souvenirs come from foundries on the road to Mỹ Sơn.
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