France
Blaye
Blaye: A Vauban Citadel on the Gironde
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Where Ships Moor
River ships call at Blaye on the right bank of the Gironde estuary, about 56 km north of Bordeaux; your cruise line will tell you where your ship moors. The citadel stands on a rocky spur above the water, with the town spread out behind it.
- Blaye had 5,066 people in 2023 and is a subprefecture of the Gironde department.
- The estuary is about 3 km wide here.
- A small car ferry crosses to Lamarque on the MĂ©doc side. The crossing takes about 20 minutes, a little more or less depending on the tide.
- Blaye has no passenger train service.
Blaye on Your Own
The citadel is the obvious walk: a fortified enclosure of 25 hectares on a rock 35 meters above the estuary, with Vauban's gates, the ruins of a medieval castle and wide views over the water. The town of Blaye lies behind it.
- Through the gates: The citadel has two entrances, the Porte Royale of 1685 and the Porte Dauphine of 1689, each approached over a fixed bridge and a detached outwork. The tourist office is on Place de la Citadelle, facing the Porte Dauphine.
- Inside the walls: Look for the remains of the 12th-century Château des Rudel, the 13th-century Porte de Liverneuf and the 15th-century Tour de l'Éguillette, all older than the citadel around them.
- The view: From the ramparts you look out over the estuary to Fort Paté on its island. That fort cannot be visited.
- Across the water: With a long call, the ferry to Lamarque gives a short ride on the estuary. Check the return times before you go, because crossings are spaced out through the day.
- Getting back on time: All-aboard is usually about 30 minutes before sailing, and your ship posts the exact time. A ship will not wait for passengers touring on their own.
Tipping in France
Service is already included in French restaurant prices, so a tip is not expected. People who do tip usually round the bill up.
- Restaurants: The price on the menu includes service. Those who tip usually round the bill up to the next multiple of five.
- Currency: France uses the euro.
Culture and Local Life
Blaye is the center of a wine country on the hills above the estuary, and a 12th-century troubadour was born here. Since 1977 the citadel has hosted an international show-jumping competition every July.
- Wine: Vineyards cover nearly 6,000 hectares around the town. The red Blaye and the red and dry white Blaye CĂ´tes de Bordeaux are the local appellations.
- A troubadour: Jaufré Rudel, born at Blaye around 1110, was lord of the town and a poet in the Occitan language. He is known for the theme of amor de lonh, love from afar.
- A great estuary: The Gironde is the largest estuary in Western Europe, about 75 km long and up to 12 km wide.
- The sturgeon: For decades the estuary's sturgeon were caught for their caviar. Sturgeon fishing has been completely banned since 1982.
History
Blaye has been a crossing point and a stronghold on the Gironde since antiquity. Its present shape dates from the 1680s, when most of the medieval town was cleared to build the citadel and its people were moved a few hundred meters east.
- Antiquity: Blaye, then called Blavia, was a port of the Santones.
- 632: Charibert II, king of Aquitaine, died. He was buried in the basilica of Saint-Romain, whose ruins lie within the citadel; tradition also places the tomb of Roland, the hero of medieval epic, there.
- 1048 to the 14th century: The Rudel family held the castle. Jaufré Rudel is thought to have left from it for the Second Crusade in the 1140s.
- 1352: The English burned the town during the wars between France and England.
- 1685 to 1689: The military engineer François Ferry built the citadel under Vauban's supervision. Fort Médoc on the far bank and Fort Paté on its island were added in the early 1690s to close the estuary to enemy ships.
- 1794 to 1795: Several hundred priests who had refused the Revolution's oath were held in the citadel's prison while awaiting deportation.
- 1814: The citadel underwent its only siege, from a British squadron, which ended with Napoleon's abdication.
- 1832 to 1833: The Duchess of Berry was held prisoner in the citadel after trying to put her son on the throne.
- July 7, 2008: The citadel, the town walls, Fort Paté and Fort Médoc were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list as part of the Fortifications of Vauban.
- To learn more ashore: The Manutention, a former military prison and bakery inside the citadel, now holds the town's archaeological finds, including a Merovingian capital from the basilica of Saint-Romain.
Blaye with Children
The citadel works for most ages because it is a real fortress to explore, with ramparts, gates and a river below. Plan around walking and wide-open spaces rather than indoor attractions.
- Younger children: Walk in through the Porte Royale and look for where its two drawbridges once stood. The ramparts give room to run, with ships and the island fort to spot on the water.
- School age: Find the medieval pieces that Vauban kept inside his citadel: the castle ruins, the old gate of Liverneuf and the Éguillette tower.
- Teenagers: Tell the story of Jaufré Rudel, the lord of Blaye who wrote songs about a love he had never met, then take the ferry across the estuary if there is time.
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