Colombia
Barranquilla, Colombia
Barranquilla: Carnival City on the Magdalena River
Barranquilla stands on the west bank of the Magdalena about 7.5 km from the river mouth; before the city grew, the distance was about 25 km. It is hot all year, with an average temperature of about 28°C, though trade winds make the daytime more comfortable from late November to early April.
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Good to know
Arriving in Barranquilla
Some river cruises on the Magdalena begin or end in Barranquilla, and your line will tell you where the boat ties up. The Gran Malecón, a riverside park about 5 km long, follows the city's bank of the river.
- The 2018 census counted about 1.2 million people in the city, the largest on Colombia's Caribbean coast.
- The port zone runs for about 22 km along the river, from its mouth up to the Pumarejo bridge.
- Ernesto Cortissoz International Airport is in neighboring Soledad, just south of the city.
- Addresses follow a grid: calles run parallel to the river and are numbered from the Maritime Terminal, and carreras run at right angles to it.
Barranquilla on Your Own
The Gran Malecón makes a simple outing, with riverside paths, playgrounds and plenty of places to eat. If you want more, add one stop in the old center.
- Gran Malecón: The park runs beside the Magdalena from the Puerta de Oro event center, with cycle paths, playgrounds, an amphitheater and the Caimán del Río food market, where you can eat by the river. It is the city's most visited tourist site.
- Shakira statue: A 6.5-meter bronze and aluminum statue of the singer, unveiled in December 2023, stands on the Malecón.
- The Antigua Aduana: The old customs house, built between 1919 and 1921 to designs by the English architect Leslie Arbouin, is now a cultural complex with the Atlántico historical archive, libraries and a gallery.
- The old center: The city grew up around today's Paseo de Bolívar. The center is busy and commercial, with a large public market next to it, so keep valuables out of sight.
- Getting back on time: All-aboard is usually about 30 minutes before sailing, and your ship posts the exact time. A ship will not wait for passengers touring on their own.
Getting Around
Taxis are the simplest way for visitors to get around, but they need a little care. Barranquilla taxis traditionally have no meter: the driver works out the fare from the zones you cross, the time of day and any surcharges.
- Use a licensed taxi booked by phone or app, or ask your hotel or restaurant to call one, rather than hailing one in the street.
- Fares can rise sharply at night, on weekends and holidays, during carnival, in rush hour and on rainy days.
- Transmetro, a bus rapid transit system, runs articulated buses on their own lanes. City buses need a prepaid card bought in advance, as drivers do not take cash.
- Motorcycle taxis are illegal and risky.
- Do not leave food or drinks unattended, and do not accept anything from strangers.
Food and Drink
Barranquilla's cooking is Caribbean Colombian, with a strong Syrian-Lebanese thread from immigrant families. Fried snacks, rice cooked with coconut and pigeon-pea soups are everyday food.
- Sancocho de guandú, a stew of pigeon peas with salted meat, is a city classic and even has its own annual festival.
- Arroz con coco (coconut rice) and bocachico frito, a fried fish from the Magdalena, are local favorites.
- An arepa de huevo is a corn arepa that is fried, opened, filled with a raw egg and fried again.
- Butifarras, small round sausages from neighboring Soledad, are eaten with a squeeze of lime and a bollo de yuca.
- Look out for raspao and boli among the street treats, and Águila is the local beer.
Tipping in Colombia
Colombia uses the peso (COP). Nicer restaurants generally add a 10% service charge to the bill, and where they do not, it is usual to add it yourself.
- Much everyday tipping is simply rounding up to the nearest thousand pesos.
- Tipping taxi drivers is not common.
- Private tour guides do not need to be tipped, but it is common to do so if you enjoyed the tour.
Carnival and Music
Carnival takes over the city for the four days before Ash Wednesday, Saturday to Tuesday, usually in February or early March. UNESCO named it a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2003.
- Its traditions go back to the 19th century, with parades, costumes, dances and music across the city.
- Cumbia is the rhythm and dance most closely tied to the city, alongside porro, puya, mapalé and others.
- The salsa singer Joe Arroyo, who sang about the city and its carnival, has a statue here, unveiled in 2011.
- The singer Shakira was born here, and her songs "Hips Don't Lie" and "La Bicicleta" both mention the city.
- Barranquijazz, a jazz festival, is held every September.
A Brief History
Barranquilla was not founded in Spanish colonial times; it grew from the homes of ranch workers on the Magdalena into Colombia's main port. Its growth came with river steamboats, the railway, aviation and immigration.
- 1533: The first written description of the area dates from this year.
- 1627 to 1637: The Hacienda San Nicolás de Tolentino was established by the river channel, and its workers built homes nearby.
- 7 April 1813: Barranquilla was legally established as a town, a date still celebrated as Barranquilla Day.
- Mid-19th century: Steamboats on the Magdalena had made the river town an important port.
- 1893: The pier at Puerto Colombia, on the coast nearby, was built and became one of the longest in the world.
- 1919: South America's first airport opened in Barranquilla, home of SCADTA, the continent's first airline and the forerunner of Avianca. In 1925 SCADTA flew its first international service, to Key West.
- Late 19th and 20th centuries: Jewish, Syrian, Lebanese, Palestinian and many other immigrants arrived and helped build the city's commerce.
- 1936: The channel at Bocas de Ceniza, the river mouth, was opened to shipping, turning Barranquilla into a seaport.
- 2003: UNESCO recognized the carnival.
- 2017: The first stage of the Gran Malecón opened on the riverfront.
- To learn more ashore: The Museo del Carnaval, opened in 2011 in the Casa del Carnaval in the barrio Abajo, shows murals, costumes, photographs and musical instruments, and has an interactive room.
Barranquilla with Children
Barranquilla is a big working city, but the riverfront and a few attractions make it easy with children. Plan outdoor time for the cooler parts of the day.
- Younger children: The Gran Malecón has several playgrounds, and near Calle 72 a group of nine sculptures brings to life a children's poem by Rafael Pombo about a wandering tadpole.
- School age: Barranquilla Zoo keeps more than 500 animals of about 140 species, with an emphasis on Colombian wildlife. The Ventana al Mundo, a giant glass-and-steel "window" monument from 2018, has the city's milestones shown on the bases of its towers.
- Teenagers: Try a few cumbia steps, find the Shakira statue, or catch a match of Junior, the city's first-division football club.
Shopping
For crafts, head to the corner of Calle 72 and Carrera 46, where kiosks sell handmade goods and the Artesanías de Colombia store stocks certified pieces at higher prices. The big shopping malls, Buenavista and Villa Country, are in the north of the city.
- Downtown stalls sell crafts more cheaply, though the quality is usually lower.
- The small town of Usiacurí, outside the city, is a source of authentic handicrafts.
- Market stalls along Carreras 43 and 44 sell fruit, vegetables and everyday goods.
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