Kenya
Amboseli
Amboseli: Elephants Beneath Kilimanjaro
Amboseli is the protected core of a much larger ecosystem, about 8,000 square kilometers, that spreads across the border between Kenya and Tanzania. Besides its elephants, the park holds lions, cheetahs, spotted hyenas, Masai giraffes, zebras and wildebeest. Days here can reach about 40°C and nights can fall to about 5°C, so pack warm layers as well as a hat.
Good to know
Arriving in Amboseli
Amboseli is an inland national park in Kajiado County, southern Kenya, not a port, so cruise travelers reach it on an overland program, by road from Nairobi or by light aircraft. You see it from a vehicle on game drives, and many lodges and camps arrange both the drives and the transfers through the park gates.
- The road from Nairobi by way of Emali and Iremito Gate is about 204 km. The route by way of Namanga to Meshanani Gate is about 220 km, and the last stretch after Namanga is unpaved.
- Light aircraft use a paved airstrip at Kimana.
- Gates open at 6:00 and close at 18:00 unless you are staying overnight in the park.
- More than 400 bird species have been recorded, and the park is one of Kenya's Important Bird Areas.
- There is no fuel inside the park, and there are no shops beyond small kiosks near the Kimana and Iremito gates.
Game Drives and Park Rules
Inside the park you stay in your vehicle, except at designated places such as Observation Hill, where a short walk around the top is allowed. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times for game drives, when animals are most active and the air is cooler.
- Keep the vehicle doors closed and stay on the established roads; driving off them is prohibited.
- The speed limit is 40 km/h.
- Keep at least 20 meters from wildlife, never feed animals, and do not use the horn.
- Single-use plastic is banned in Kenya's national parks.
- Swimming in rivers and lakes is illegal inside national parks.
- Observation Hill, also called Nomatior, looks over the swamps and plains to Kilimanjaro on clear days.
- In the rainy seasons, March to May and November, roads near the seasonal lake can flood or turn to mud.
Meals on Safari
There are no public restaurants in the park, so your meals come from your lodge or camp, usually on a full-board or half-board plan. Packed lunches are common on long drives.
- Lodge menus mix international dishes with Kenyan staples such as ugali, chapati, stewed greens and nyama choma, which is grilled meat.
- Tap water is not recommended. Carry one to two liters per person on each game drive, more in the hottest months.
- Tell your lodge about any dietary needs in advance, because special ingredients are hard to find in this rural area.
- Lodges serve Kenyan tea and coffee, and their bars stock Kenyan beers.
The Maasai
The Maasai are the main people living around Amboseli, a pastoral community whose way of life has long centered on cattle. Visits to manyattas, their traditional villages, and to cultural centers near the park show homesteads, beadwork and dances.
- Their own language is Maa, and most Maasai also speak Swahili and English, Kenya's official languages.
- Maasai warriors perform the adumu, sometimes called the jumping dance.
- Maasai beadwork is sold in lodge curio shops and at craft stalls outside the park, especially around Kimana and on the road toward Loitokitok.
A Brief History
Amboseli lies in Maasai country, and its protected status has changed several times. Since 1972 its elephants have also been the subject of a long-running scientific study.
- 1883: The first European known to enter the region arrived. The Maasai called the area Empusel, "salty, dusty place" in Maa.
- 1906: The area was set aside as part of the Southern Reserve for the Maasai.
- 1948: It returned to local control as a game reserve.
- 1972: Cynthia Moss began studying Amboseli's elephants. Her Amboseli Elephant Research Project is the longest-running study of a land mammal.
- 1 November 1974: Amboseli was gazetted as a national park.
- 1991: UNESCO recognized the area, which is now a UNESCO Man and the Biosphere reserve.
- 2009: Echo, the matriarch Moss had followed since 1973 and the subject of several books and films, died.
Amboseli with Children
A safari here means long hours in a vehicle, early starts and real heat, so it works best for children who can sit still and keep quiet around animals. Most lodges are unfenced, which shapes how families move around after dark.
- Younger children: Keep drives short and bring water, snacks and a hat. Elephants often walk in single file across the plains, which makes them easy to count from the car.
- School age: Learn the story of Echo, whose family members were all given names starting with E, and look for herons, pelicans and crowned cranes around the swamps.
- Teenagers: At Observation Hill, one of the designated places where a short walk is allowed, look out over the plains, and try to photograph elephants with Kilimanjaro behind them. Early morning gives the best chance of seeing the mountain clear of cloud.
- Everyone: At unfenced lodges, wildlife can walk through the grounds, so ask staff for an escort after dark and never walk alone.
Accessible Travel
Most of a visit to Amboseli happens from a vehicle, which helps travelers who cannot walk far, but the park roads are rough, dusty and often corrugated. Ask your safari operator about vehicle steps and seating before you book.
- Dust on the plains can bother people with breathing problems, so bring sunglasses and a scarf or buff.
- Mosquitoes are present near the swamps and in the evening; talk to a doctor about malaria prevention before you travel.
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