Grundarfjordur, Iceland: Kirkjufell Mountain and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Kirkjufell (Church Mountain) is 463 meters tall and rises in an almost perfect cone directly from the edge of the fjord. The waterfall at its base, Kirkjufellsfoss, runs in multiple braids across basalt columns into the harbor waters. The combination of waterfall, mountain, and sea has made this one of the defining images of Iceland, appearing in photography books and on the television program that filmed several scenes here. The walk from the harbor to the base of the falls is twenty minutes on a flat path. The trail to the summit is steep, unmarked in sections, and requires good footwear.

Snæfellsjökull National Park is the main draw of the peninsula. The glacier-capped volcano at its western tip — Snæfellsjökull — is the setting of Jules Verne's Journey to the Center of the Earth and has a distinct atmospheric quality on cloudy days when the summit disappears into the weather. The national park road circles around the base of the volcano; organized excursions from Grundarfjordur cover the main points in a half day.

The lava formations along the southern Snæfellsnes coast include Búðir, a stark black church in an open lava field, and Arnarstapi, a sea arch above nesting fulmars and kittiwakes. The coastline here is exposed volcanic basalt formed by eruptions thousands of years ago, eroded into columns, arches, and sea caves by Atlantic waves.

Whale watching operates from Grundarfjordur in summer. Minke whales are the most commonly sighted species in the fjord; orcas appear occasionally. The harbor is small and the departure time depends on tidal conditions. Book ahead if this matters to you.

Grundarfjordur is also one of the most reliable spots in Iceland for seeing orcas in winter, when herring schools concentrate in the fjord. Summer cruise season does not coincide with this, but it is worth knowing for future visits.