United States
Wrangell, Alaska
Wrangell: Small-Town Alaska With Ancient Rock Art and Bears on Salmon
Wrangell is a fishing and timber town of about 2,100 people on the northwest corner of Wrangell Island in Southeast Alaska, and the homeland of the Stikine Tlingit. Tlingit, Russian, British and American rule have all left their mark on it. Pack rain gear even if the morning is clear, because the weather changes quickly.
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Good to know
What Cruise Travelers Should Know
Cruise ships tie up at the City Dock, a T-shaped pier at the north end of downtown that takes vessels up to about 950 feet long, within walking distance of the shops, restaurants and main sights. Larger ships may anchor offshore and bring passengers to the dock by tender.
- Smaller cruise ships use the inside face of the dock, and in summer a floating platform is installed for passengers getting on and off.
- Wrangell's children sell garnets they have collected to visitors at the cruise dock, a tradition that goes back generations.
- The Nolan Center on Campbell Drive houses the town's Visitor Center, with trail maps.
- Cell service gets thin once you leave town.
Wrangell on Your Own
Downtown Wrangell is small enough to see on foot: the totem park, the Tlingit carving shed and the clan house on Shakes Island are all close to the dock, and a hill trail with a view starts in the residential streets. Petroglyph Beach is the exception: it is about half a mile from the ferry terminal, so ask at the Visitor Center on Campbell Drive how to reach it from your berth.
- Shakes Island: The Chief Shakes Tribal House stands on a small island in Reliance Harbor, reached by a footbridge at 155 Shakes Street. The island is open at all times; the house itself can be opened for a guided visit if you arrange it with the Wrangell Cooperative Association.
- Kiks.ádi Totem Park: Downtown, on the way to Shakes Island, with poles first raised in the 1890s to honor a Kiks.ádi chief.
- The carving shed: At the Wrangell Cooperative Association's Cultural Center and Carving Shed on Front Street, you can watch carvers at work on totem poles. Ask before you photograph the artists or their work.
- Mount Dewey: The trail climbs about half a mile on stairs and boardwalk to a lookout above the town. Look for the trailhead signs as you walk up from downtown.
- Petroglyph Beach: About half a mile from the ferry terminal, with a boardwalk and viewing deck above the beach. More of the beach is exposed at low tide, so check the tide before you go.
- Getting back on time: All-aboard is usually about 30 minutes before sailing, and your ship posts the exact time. A ship will not wait for passengers touring on their own. All-aboard is given in ship's time, which may not match the local clocks or your phone.
Getting Around Wrangell
Wrangell is compact enough to walk, and for a cruise visit most people need nothing more. For farther trailheads there are taxis, rental scooters and e-bikes, and for the Stikine River and Anan Creek you go by jet boat or floatplane.
- Rental cars are kept at the airport and are busy from June to August; they may be driven only on paved roads in town, not on the forest roads.
- Rental scooters are picked up and left anywhere in town using an app.
- Local jet-boat operators run water taxis to Forest Service cabins and nearby communities.
- The Rainbow Falls trailhead is 4.5 miles out of town on the Zimovia Highway, too far to walk on a short visit.
- No road reaches Anan Creek, about 30 miles south of town; you go by boat or floatplane.
What to Eat in Wrangell
Wrangell is a fishing town, and the seafood landed here, especially salmon, halibut, shrimp and crab, is what to look for. Some local processors and fishermen sell directly to visitors, and some will ship your purchase home.
- Salmon, shrimp and crab processing shaped Wrangell's working waterfront, and processors still freeze and pack the catch for sale.
- If you buy direct, ask what is available, where it was caught and whether the seller can ship it home.
- In late summer, wild blueberries ripen beside the Volunteer Park trail, and picking them is allowed.
Tipping in the United States
Tipping is widely practiced in the United States, and servers in restaurants and bars expect a tip, worked out as a share of the bill. Some restaurants add an automatic gratuity or service charge, especially for larger groups, so look at the bill before you add more.
- Taxi drivers are usually tipped.
- Keep some small bills for tips.
- The currency is the US dollar, and foreign currencies are almost never accepted.
Tlingit Heritage and Local Culture
Wrangell is the homeland of the Stikine Tlingit, the Shtaxʼhéen Ḵwáan, named after the nearby Stikine River, and their culture is living and active here. The Wrangell Cooperative Association, the town's tribal government, cares for the totem park, runs the Carving Shed and arranges visits to the clan house.
- The Chief Shakes Tribal House is a replica of the Naanyaa.aayí clan house, rebuilt in 1940 by Civilian Conservation Corps crews using traditional methods, and restored again by master carvers and local apprentices in 2013.
- Most of the original totem poles from Shakes Island have been taken down and now stand in the Carving Shed downtown, where you can watch carvers at work.
- Do not touch, climb or lean on totem poles or carvings, and remember that some stories and designs belong to particular clans and families.
- Wrangell's weekly newspaper, the Wrangell Sentinel, founded in 1902, is one of the oldest continuously published newspapers in Alaska.
History of Wrangell
Tlingit people have lived around Wrangell for thousands of years, and the town grew from a Russian stockade of 1834 into a supply point for gold seekers heading up the Stikine River. It has been Tlingit, Russian, British and American, and it is one of the oldest non-Native settlements in Alaska.
- Before 1811: Tlingit clan traditions tell of people migrating down the Stikine River and settling at sites along it and on the coast, and the petroglyphs at Petroglyph Beach attest to their long presence.
- 1811 to 1834: Russians began trading for furs with the Tlingit here in 1811, and in 1834 Baron Ferdinand Wrangel ordered a stockade built near Chief Shakes's clan house, named Redoubt Saint Dionysius.
- 1836 to 1849: Smallpox epidemics in 1836 and 1840 halved the Tlingit population. Britain's Hudson's Bay Company leased the fort in 1839 as Fort Stikine and left in 1849, when the furs ran out.
- 1861 to 1897: Gold rushes in 1861, 1874–1877 and 1897 sent thousands of miners up the Stikine River, into British Columbia's Cassiar district and later toward the Klondike.
- 1867 to 1877: After the United States bought Alaska in 1867, it built a military post here, Fort Wrangell, which stayed active until 1877.
- 1877 to 1880: The first Presbyterian church in Alaska was founded in 1877, the St. Rose of Lima Catholic church, the oldest in Alaska, in 1879, and the naturalist John Muir lived in Wrangell in 1879 and 1880.
- 1940: Civilian Conservation Corps crews rebuilt the Chief Shakes Tribal House on Shakes Island.
- 1950s: A severe fire burned much of downtown, and few historic buildings survived it.
- 2023: A landslide struck the town and killed six people.
- To learn more ashore: The Wrangell Museum at the Nolan Center, 296 Campbell Drive, traces the story from the Tlingit through the Russian, British and American periods. In October 2026 admission for visitors from outside Alaska was $12, and children 12 and under entered free; check before you go.
Traveling with Children
Wrangell suits children who like to be outdoors: rock carvings on a beach, garnets for sale from local kids, and a short, steep hill trail. Pack rain gear and boots, because the boardwalks are usually wet.
- Younger children: Buy a garnet from a Wrangell child at the dock, then make rubbings of the replica petroglyphs on the viewing deck at Petroglyph Beach; the original carvings on the beach should not be rubbed.
- School age: Walk across the footbridge to Shakes Island and through the totem park, and look for the whale among the petroglyphs on the beach.
- Teenagers: The Mount Dewey climb is about half a mile on stairs and boardwalk; John Muir camped on the mountain in 1879, and a fire he lit during a storm startled the Tlingit in the town below.
- Bears: Anan Creek, where black and brown bears fish the same stream for pink salmon in summer, needs a guide or a permit and a boat or floatplane, so it suits a planned excursion rather than a free afternoon.
Accessible Travel in Wrangell
The City Dock is at the edge of downtown and most sights are a short distance away, but Wrangell's hill trails are built of steps and boardwalk. If your ship uses tenders, ask your cruise line how passengers with limited mobility are brought ashore.
- Petroglyph Beach has an accessible boardwalk and a viewing deck, with replica carvings on the deck itself.
- Both Mount Dewey and the Rainbow Falls trail climb on stairs, log steps and boardwalk, and the town advises against them for anyone with bad knees or hips or limited mobility, especially in the wet.
- The loop in Volunteer Park, which locals call the Nature Trail, is an easy walk with no climb.
- At Anan Creek, visitors walk a boardwalk from the beach up to a roofed platform over the creek, and stairs lead down from it to the photo blind.
Shopping in Wrangell
Wrangell's shopping is small and local: garnets from the town's children, Native art and books, and seafood from the town's processors.
- Garnets collected by Wrangell children at Garnet Ledge, near the mouth of the Stikine River, are sold at the cruise dock and in local gift shops.
- The Nolan Center's museum shop sells books on regional history, works by Southeast Alaska authors and Lingít artwork.
- Several local seafood businesses will ship purchases home; confirm what can be shipped and how it will be packed.
The Wrangell Coastline
Wrangell's shoreline is about rock and tide rather than sand. Petroglyph Beach, a State Historic Park since 2000, has more than 40 carvings on its boulders and bedrock, near the high-tide line.
- The carvings show whales, salmon and faces, and most of the well-known ones are to the right of the access point, toward a tidal outcrop.
- The petroglyphs are protected by federal and Alaska law, so look and photograph but do not touch or rub them.
- Garnet Ledge, about 7 miles away by boat near the mouth of the Stikine River, is reserved for Wrangell's children, who may dig there freely; anyone else needs permission from the church that owns it.
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