La Coruña, Spain: Roman Lighthouse, Glass Balconies, and Galician Seafood

The Tower of Hercules is the world's oldest working lighthouse and the only one from the Roman era still in operation. It was built by the Romans in the second century CE, renovated in 1791, and has guided ships into the harbor of La Coruña for almost two thousand years. The UNESCO World Heritage designation came in 2009. The tower stands on a headland at the northern tip of the city peninsula; the walk up from the base to the lighthouse lantern takes about ten minutes via the external spiral ramp. The panoramic view from the top covers the Atlantic coastline in both directions. The archaeological site of the original Roman structure is around the base.

The defining visual feature of La Coruña's old city is the Galerías — enclosed glass balconies on the façades of the old quarter buildings facing the harbor. They developed as a practical response to the Atlantic climate: the glass captures light and provides shelter while still allowing views of the sea. The result is a streetscape unlike anywhere else in Spain. The Calle Real and the Calle de la Franja running along the harbor have the most intact examples.

The Maria Pita Plaza is the main square of the old town, named for a woman who led the defense of the city against Sir Francis Drake's attack in 1589. The statue in the center shows her raising a pike. The City Hall faces the square. The market, Mercado de San Agustín, is one block away and is the best place to understand the local seafood culture: stalls selling percebes (barnacles, a local delicacy), pulpo (octopus), vieiras (scallops), and fresh Atlantic fish, all still very much alive.

Santiago de Compostela, 70 km south by road, is the endpoint of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes. The cathedral — Romanesque, recently cleaned to a pale gold — is the destination of hundreds of thousands of pilgrims annually. The Portico of Glory inside the cathedral, carved by Master Mateo in the twelfth century, is considered one of the finest achievements of Romanesque sculpture. The journey from La Coruña takes about an hour each way; organized excursions run to Santiago and back in a half day.

Pulpo a feira — boiled octopus dressed with olive oil, sea salt, and paprika on a wooden board — is the dish most associated with Galicia. In La Coruña, it is served at the market and at dedicated pulperías (octopus restaurants) throughout the old town. The texture depends on the cooking time; properly cooked it is tender, not rubbery. Ordering a shared raciones plate as a first course before fish is the standard way to eat here.