Germany
Kiel
Kiel: The Fjord, the Canal and the Naval Memorial at Laboe
In November 1918 sailors at Kiel refused orders to sail for a last battle with the British fleet, and their revolt spread across Germany and brought down the monarchy. St. Nicholas Church on the Alter Markt, begun around 1242, is the oldest building in a city that lost more than 80 percent of its remaining old town to wartime bombing. If you ride the fjord ferry out to the naval memorial at Laboe, check the times of the boats back before you set out.
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What Cruise Travelers Should Know About Kiel
Cruise ships berth at the Ostseekai or the Schwedenkai on the west side of the Kiel Fjord, both right at the city center, at the Norwegenkai across the inner harbor, or at a single cruise berth in the Ostuferhafen, a cargo harbor on the far side of the fjord in Neumühlen-Dietrichsdorf. Your cruise line will tell you which quay is yours, and it makes a difference to how far you have to go.
- The Schwedenkai faces the New Town Hall, and the Norwegenkai is linked to the city center and the main station by the Hörn footbridge.
- Kiel Hauptbahnhof, the main station, is beside the central bus station and has hourly trains to Hamburg and Lübeck.
- Germany uses the euro.
- You do not have to carry ID by law, but if you cannot show it when police ask, they can take you to fetch your passport.
- Watch for pickpockets and bag snatchers at stations and in crowds, and do not leave bags unattended.
Kiel on Your Own
The old town, the shopping streets and the maritime museum are in the city center, and the public fjord ferry runs from the main station to Laboe. Much of the old city was destroyed in the Second World War, so most buildings you see are postwar.
- The old town: St. Nicholas Church on the Alter Markt is the oldest building in Kiel, begun around 1242, with Ernst Barlach's bronze Geistkämpfer outside. The Holstenstraße pedestrian shopping street runs from here toward the station.
- On the waterfront: The Maritime Museum is in the old fish auction hall of 1910 on the Sartorikai, and museum ships, among them a lifeboat, a fireboat and a buoy tender of 1906, lie at the Seegarten pier beside it.
- The ferry to Laboe: Fjord ferry line F1 runs from the Bahnhof landing near the main station, calling at Seegarten and Reventlou, to Laboe about 10 kilometers to the northeast. Ordinary public transport fares apply.
- At Laboe: The naval memorial's tower stands 85 meters above the sea, with two lifts or 341 steps to the viewing platform, and U-995 lies on the beach in front of it. In 2026 a combined ticket for both cost 14 euros for an adult, and from April to October both were open from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Check before you go.
- Getting back on time: All-aboard is usually about 30 minutes before sailing, and your ship posts the exact time. A ship will not wait for passengers touring on their own, so check the ferry times back from Laboe before you set out.
Getting Around Kiel
Buses run by KVG cover the city, and ferries cross and run up the fjord as part of the same public transport network. Kiel is largely flat, and the Ostseekai and Schwedenkai on the west bank are at the city center.
- Schleswig-Holstein public transport fares apply on buses, regional trains and the fjord ferries, and day tickets are available. Tickets are sold in the NAH.SH app and at the KVG service center in the Umsteiger building at the main station.
- Ferry line F1 runs between the main station and Laboe, and in summer on to Strande on the west shore; line F2 crosses from the west bank to the mouth of the Schwentine.
- Taxis wait at the main station around the clock, and you can also order one by phone or app.
- Kiel is largely flat and good for cycling, and the Sprottenflotte bike share runs through the Donkey Republic app.
- Hamburg Airport, about 90 kilometers south, is the nearest international airport, with a shuttle bus to Kiel's main station.
- Check before you go, because fares and timetables change.
What to Eat in Kiel
Kiel's own specialty is the Kieler Sprotte, a small Baltic sprat smoked whole. Sprats sold as genuine Kieler Sprotten have to come from the Kiel Bay area.
- Kieler Sprotten: Traditional sprats are smoked over beech and alder wood and sold in shallow wooden boxes. You can eat them whole, bones and all, but most people pull off the head and tail first.
- An old name: Kiel sprats were already praised in print in 1809, decades before the railway reached the city.
- Kiel Week food: During Kiel Week, an international market on the Rathausmarkt has stalls from dozens of countries.
- Coffee and cake: Cafés cluster at the northern end of the Holstenstraße, near St. Nicholas Church.
Tipping in Germany
Tips are usual in Germany in restaurants, bars and taxis, though not obligatory. Rounding up the bill is common, and a tip rarely goes above 10 percent.
- Taxi drivers are usually given 5 to 10 percent, and at least one euro.
Sailing Culture, Museums and the Navy
Kiel lives by the water, and its great event is Kiel Week in the last full week of June, a sailing regatta that turns into a city-wide summer festival. Outside that week, the town hall, the old church and a cluster of museums give the city its character.
- Kiel Week: The regatta has been held since the late 19th century and is the largest sailing event in the world. On the last Saturday, the Windjammer Parade brings more than 100 tall ships and traditional sailing vessels down the fjord.
- Town Hall: The Rathaus of 1911 has a tower modeled on one in Venice and a working paternoster lift.
- Museums: The Zoological Museum of Kiel University has the only blue whale skeleton in Germany, and the Kunsthalle shows art from Dürer's time to the present, including works by Repin, Nolde and Richter.
- The navy and shipbuilding: Kiel has long been a home of the German Navy's Baltic fleet, and ships, including submarines, are still built here.
- Handball: THW Kiel is one of the most successful handball clubs in the world.
Kiel: From Danish Duchy to Naval Power
Kiel grew from a medieval Holstein town into Germany's main naval base, and that role shaped its history through two world wars. The Kiel Canal, opened in 1895, gave it a link to the North Sea.
- Founding: Count Adolf IV of Holstein founded the town in 1233, and it received Lübeck town rights in 1242.
- The Hanseatic League: Kiel was a member from 1284 until 1518, when it was expelled for sheltering pirates. Its annual trade fair, the Kieler Umschlag, began in 1431.
- University: Kiel University was founded in 1665, and its scholars have included Theodor Mommsen and Max Planck.
- Danish rule: From 1773 to 1864 the town was ruled by the king of Denmark as Duke of Holstein. After the Second Schleswig War it passed to Prussia, which made Kiel the base of its Baltic fleet in 1865.
- The canal: Building began at Holtenau in 1887, and Kaiser Wilhelm II opened the canal in June 1895. It runs 98 kilometers from Brunsbüttel on the Elbe to Holtenau on the Kiel Fjord.
- The mutiny: On November 3, 1918, sailors in Kiel rose against orders to sail for a last battle with the British fleet. The revolt spread across Germany and led to the end of the monarchy.
- The Second World War: As a naval base and submarine yard, Kiel was heavily bombed; more than 80 percent of the remaining old town was destroyed.
- Postwar: Kiel became the seat of government of Schleswig-Holstein in 1946 and the state capital in 1952, and the Bay of Kiel hosted the Olympic sailing events in 1936 and 1972.
- Learn more: The Maritime Museum in the old fish auction hall on the Sartorikai covers Kiel's fishing history, the canal, the navy, the shipyards and sailing.
Kiel with Children and Families
The fjord ferry is a good outing in itself for children, and the beach and U-boat at Laboe make a full half-day. Back in town, there are museum ships at the Seegarten pier and whale skeletons in the Zoological Museum.
- Younger children: Ride ferry line F1 up the fjord and spend time on the beach at Laboe. The Tannenberg wildlife enclosure in the north of the city has deer roaming freely, and entry is free.
- School age: U-995 at Laboe is a walk-through submarine museum, the only Type VII U-boat left anywhere. The Zoological Museum has whale skeletons, including a blue whale.
- Teenagers: The memorial tower stands 85 meters above the sea. Cyclists sometimes ride from Kiel to Laboe, cross the fjord by ferry to Strande and ride back along the west shore.
- Tickets: In 2026 a family ticket for the memorial or the U-boat cost 25 euros and 22 euros, or 38 euros for both, for two adults and two to four children. A MuseumsCard app gives free entry to many museums in Kiel for those aged 17 and under. Check before you go.
Accessibility in Kiel
Kiel is largely flat, and the Ostseekai and Schwedenkai on the west bank are at the city center. Ask your cruise line which quay you will use, since the east bank berth is farther out.
- The Laboe memorial: The grounds, the Historic Hall and the memorial hall are low-barrier, and two lifts serve the viewing platform. Assistance dogs are allowed on showing proof.
- Reduced fares: In 2026 visitors with a valid severe-disability card paid less at the memorial and the U-boat. Check before you go.
- The Norwegenkai: A footbridge over the Hörn links this quay with the city center and the main station.
- Ask your ship how far the walk is from the gangway to the terminal exit.
Shopping in Kiel
The Holstenstraße is the main shopping street, and the Sophienhof mall is next to the main station.
- Holstenstraße: One of the longest shopping streets in Germany, closed to traffic, with shops and places to eat.
- Sophienhof: Kiel's first and oldest shopping mall, beside the main station.
- Holtenauer Straße: A busy street north of the center with cafés and more upscale shops toward its southern end.
- Something local: Look for Kieler Sprotten in their wooden boxes.
The Kiel Fjord and Baltic Coast
The beaches are north of the city along both shores of the fjord, at Laboe on the east side and at Schilksee and Strande on the west. The ferry reaches several of them.
- Laboe: A resort on the east shore of the outer fjord, about 10 kilometers northeast of Kiel, with the naval memorial and U-995 on its shore. Ferry line F1 runs here from the main station.
- Schilksee and Strande: Beaches on the west shore of the outer fjord. Line F1 calls at both in summer.
- Schönberger Strand: About 8 kilometers of sandy beach, a little over an hour from central Kiel by bus 200 or 201.
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