Croatia
Split, Croatia
Split: Diocletian's Palace Is the City, and People Live Inside It
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What to Expect
Cruise ships use Split's passenger harbor, about 500 meters from the city center, and the walk to the old town takes five minutes.
- The old town sits inside the walls of Diocletian's Palace, and the Riva, a waterfront promenade closed to traffic, runs along the palace's south side.
- Tourist information centers are on the Riva and on the Peristyle, the palace's central square.
- Split fines visitors €300 for drinking alcohol in public in the old center, for climbing or sitting on monuments and for bathing in fountains.
Diocletian and a Palace That Became a City
Split began as a Roman emperor's retirement home and became a city when refugees moved in.
- Greek settlers founded a colony called Aspálathos on this coast in the 3rd or 2nd century BC.
- Diocletian, who was born in Dalmatia, built the palace for his retirement and gave up the throne in 305. About half of the complex was his residence and the rest housed a garrison.
- Around 650, after Avars and Slavs sacked Salona, the provincial capital six kilometers away, its people took shelter inside the palace walls.
- Venice ruled Split from 1420 until 1797, and Austria held it for most of the years from then until 1918, when the city became part of Yugoslavia.
- Croatia left Yugoslavia in 1991, during its war of independence.
Getting Around and Island Day Trips
Split's old town is close enough to the ship to see on foot, and city buses cover the rest.
- Promet Split runs the city buses. Its online map shows where each bus is in real time, and tickets can be bought online.
- Bus 37 links Split with the airport, about 20 km away, and with Trogir. The airport ride takes about 50 minutes and cost €3 on the timetable in force from September 2025, so check the fare before you travel.
- Ferries for the Dalmatian islands sail from the same passenger harbor where cruise ships berth.
- A hop-on, hop-off sightseeing bus also operates in the city.
What to Eat
Seafood is the thing to order in Split, whether in a restaurant or a tavern.
- Pašticada is beef braised in a sweet and sour sauce and usually served with gnocchi. It comes from Dalmatia and is marinated overnight before it is cooked.
- Soparnik is a thin pie of chard, garlic and olive oil from Poljica, the district between Split and Omiš. It has held protected status in the European Union since 2016.
- The city's fish market, about 120 years old, is a short stroll from Pjaca, a square in the old town.
Culture & Local Life
Diocletian's Palace, built around the turn of the 4th century, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.
- The Peristyle leads to the Cathedral of St. Domnius, which was made in the Middle Ages out of the emperor's own mausoleum.
- The cathedral's bell tower is 57 meters high, and visitors can climb its steps to the top.
- The palace has four gates, known as the Golden, Silver, Iron and Brass gates, and its cellars are among the best preserved Roman substructures anywhere. Scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed in the cellars.
- Outside the Golden Gate stands Ivan Meštrović's statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin, 8.5 meters tall. Rubbing its toe is said to bring luck.
Tipping
Croatia has used the euro since January 1, 2023.
- Restaurant bills in Croatia do not include a service charge, and a tip of 5 to 10 percent on a meal is the custom.
- For a coffee or a drink, rounding up or leaving a coin is normal.
- Carry a few small coins and notes for tips even if you pay by card.
Shopping & Local Markets
Marmontova is the main shopping street in the center of Split, and the open-air market called Pazar is beside the palace's Silver Gate.
- Pazar is a farmers' market for fruit and vegetables, and the best time to go is a weekend morning.
- Marmontova mixes international chains with Croatian designers, souvenir shops and pastry shops.
- Croata, a Croatian label known for neckties and scarves, has a shop on the Peristyle and another at Voćni trg.
Traveling with Family
Children get the most out of Split's beaches and the play equipment beside them.
- The beaches at Žnjan and Bačvice have trampolines, slides and similar equipment for children.
- Diocletian's Dream is a 15-minute virtual-reality film about the emperor and his palace, shown every 30 minutes. Booking ahead is recommended.
- Treasure Digging Game is an app in which children steer a puppy called Bella through the palace streets to find treasure in the cellars.
- Froggyland is a small museum of stuffed frogs posed in everyday human scenes.
Beaches
Bačvice, a sandy beach near the harbor, has been Split's municipal beach since 1919.
- Bačvice is where picigin was first played, in 1908: players in ankle-deep water keep a small ball in the air for as long as they can.
- Firule has fine sand and natural shelter, which has long made it a choice for parents with young children.
- Kašjuni, on the west side of Marjan hill, has a deep bay, small pebbles, a café and changing cabins. One marked section of Kašjuni is for naturists.
- Trstenik, on the east side of the city, is a pebble beach with an easy way into the sea.
Accessibility
Ask your ship whether it will berth or anchor in Split, because the harbor has an anchorage and an anchored ship means a tender.
- LiberatoMap, an app from the Liberato association, lists how accessible the city's public buildings, cultural sites, parking, restaurants and public transport are, and plans routes to suit the user.
- The view from the cathedral bell tower is reached by climbing its steps.
- Bene beach on Marjan has a section adapted for disabled swimmers, with a lift. The tourist board listed Bene beach as closed when this was checked.
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