What to Expect
Two terminals serve Lisbon. Santa Apolónia terminal (near Alfama) puts you a 10-minute walk from the old city and a Metro stop from anywhere. Alcântara terminal (Cruise Port of Lisbon) is 4 km west, closer to Belém. The city is built on seven hills; Tram 28 (the vintage yellow tram) is the classic way to navigate the old neighborhoods, though it's crowded in summer. Lisbon is compact and manageable for a port day — more so than Rome or Barcelona.
Getting Around
From Santa Apolónia terminal: Metro Blue Line to Baixa-Chiado (8 minutes), the heart of the downtown. Tram 28 runs from Martim Moniz through Alfama to Belém — catch it at its origin point in Martim Moniz to get a seat. Taxis from either terminal: €10–15 to Belém, €5–8 to Baixa. Uber works well in Lisbon. Walking from the Santa Apolónia terminal to Alfama: 12 minutes uphill.
Tipping and Currency
Euros. Portugal tips modestly — 10% at sit-down restaurants is good, rounding up at cafés is enough. A small tip for a coffee (€0.20–0.50) is appreciated. ATMs throughout the city; avoid currency exchange kiosks. Ginjinha (cherry liqueur) shots are €1.50 in the traditional downtown shops.
What to Eat
The pastel de nata — a custard tart in a flaky shell — is Portugal's national breakfast. The original recipe belongs to Pastéis de Belém in the Belém neighborhood ($1.50 each, open since 1837). Bacalhau (salt cod) appears in hundreds of preparations; the most approachable is pastéis de bacalhau (cod fritters). For a sit-down lunch, Time Out Market in Cais do Sodré is a food hall with a curated selection of Lisbon restaurants under one roof — practical for a port day. Taberna da Rua das Flores (Chiado) does honest Portuguese cooking at reasonable prices.
Alfama, Belém, and Fado
Alfama is Lisbon's Moorish quarter — a maze of narrow streets and staircases below São Jorge Castle (€15, views of the city worth the price). The Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Miradouro da Graça are free viewpoints with the best panoramas. Belém, 6 km west of the center, has the Tower of Belém (€6, a 16th-century river fortification), the Jerónimos Monastery (€15, extraordinary Manueline Gothic architecture), and the Monument to the Discoveries. Fado — Portugal's mournful urban folk music — is performed in Alfama restaurants from 8pm. Casa de Linhares and A Baiuca are among the most respected smaller venues; most tourist fado shows include dinner (€40–60 with wine).