Istanbul: The City That Sits on Two Continents

Ships dock at Galataport Istanbul (Karaköy) — a major new cruise terminal opened 2021, directly on the tram line (T1). The Tünel funicular (2 minutes, ₺50/€1.40) connects Karaköy to Beyoğlu and Istiklal Avenue. The Historic Peninsula's main sites — Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Grand Bazaar — are all within 2 km of each other in Sultanahmet, reachable in 20 minutes by tram from Galataport. Istanbul is a full day — arriving early and leaving at the last possible moment is the correct approach. The city is enormous; pick a neighbourhood and cover it well rather than rushing between distant points.

The T1 tram runs from the cruise terminal directly to Sultanahmet (6 stops, ₺50/€1.40 using an Istanbulkart). Buy an Istanbulkart at any tram station (₺100 card deposit + credit loaded); works on trams, metro, ferry, and bus. Ferries across the Bosphorus to the Asian side (Kadıköy, Üsküdar): ₺50 each way — worthwhile if you want to say you've been to Asia. Taxis in Istanbul: always confirm the meter is on. A typical trip from Galataport to Sultanahmet is ₺80–120 (€2.20–3.30) by tram; ₺150–250 by taxi for the same journey. Uber operates and is generally reliable at ₺120–200 for in-city trips.

Hagia Sophia was completed in 537 AD as a Byzantine cathedral, converted to a mosque in 1453, made a museum in 1934, and reconverted to an active mosque in 2020. Entry is free; visitors are welcome outside prayer times (cover your head and shoulders; remove shoes at the entrance). The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque) across the square is free; the six minarets are the defining exterior feature. Topkapi Palace was the administrative and residential centre of the Ottoman Empire for 400 years — the Harem and the Treasury (containing the Topkapi Dagger and Spoonmaker's Diamond) are the primary draws; entry ₺750/€21, Harem add-on ₺350/€9.70. The Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) has 4,000 shops in 61 covered streets; come for the architecture and the atmosphere rather than the prices, which are tourist-facing. The Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) near the Galata Bridge is smaller and more practical for actual shopping.

Istanbul's street food is legitimate and safe: simit (sesame bread rings, ₺15/€0.40), döner kebab wraps (₺150–250/€4.20–7), midye dolma (stuffed mussels at Bosphorus stalls, ₺15–20 each). Sit-down meals: a proper meyhane (Turkish tavern) in Beyoğlu with meze, fish, and raki: ₺800–1,500 per person (€22–42). Turkish breakfast (serpme kahvaltı) — olives, cheeses, eggs, pastries, tea — is worth seeking out at a proper breakfast salon: ₺250–400 per person (€7–11). Turkish tea (çay) is everywhere and essentially free; declining is taken as unusual. Avoid restaurants directly adjacent to Hagia Sophia — they are overpriced without being better.

Turkish Lira (TRY). Restaurants: 10–15% tip is standard; a service charge is sometimes included on tourist-area bills — check before adding more. Taxi drivers: round up to the nearest ₺50. Hammam attendants: ₺200–500 tip is customary after a traditional bath. ATMs widely available; use bank-affiliated ATMs rather than standalone kiosks for better rates.