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St. Barthélemy

Gustavia

Gustavia: St. Barths Without Apology

Port traffic
QuietNext 30 days

Ships anchor in Gustavia harbor and tender in. Shell Beach is a 3-minute walk. Saline and Gouverneur beaches require a taxi over the island's hills. The duty-free boutiques on the harbor are genuine French luxury.

Good to know

What to Expect

The harbor is too small for large cruise ships, and smaller ships sometimes call here, so ask your ship how you will come ashore. The town wraps around the harbor and is easy to explore on foot.

  • Gustavia sits in a U-shaped cove, and Rue de la République runs along the waterfront.
  • Shops, restaurants and bars line the harbor, with luxury fashion and jewelry boutiques right in front of the port.
  • A few taxis wait at the port, and there is no public bus service on the island.
  • The island is French, the currency is the euro, and English is understood in most hotels and restaurants.

Gustavia on Your Own

An independent day in Gustavia is a walk: around the harbor, out to the museum on La Pointe, up to the ruins of Fort Gustav, and down to Shell Beach for a swim. A taxi is the only easy way to reach the island's other beaches.

  • Around the harbor: Walk the waterfront and the grid of streets laid out in the Swedish period, past the old Swedish governor's residence, now the town hall, and the 1799 bell tower, which now holds a clock.
  • The museum: The Musée Territorial, known as the Wall House, is in a restored two-story stone house at the far end of La Pointe.
  • Shell Beach: Anse de Grand Galet, called Shell Beach for the seashells on its sand, is at the southwest edge of town, not far from the port.
  • A taxi farther afield: St. Jean Bay, a popular beach, is east of Gustavia facing the airport; nowhere on the island is more than about half an hour's drive.
  • Getting back on time: All-aboard is usually about 30 minutes before sailing, and your ship posts the exact time. A ship will not wait for passengers touring on their own, so return early.
  • Watch the clock: St. Barthélemy keeps Atlantic Standard Time and does not use daylight saving time. From early November to mid-March it is an hour ahead of the US East Coast, so go by your ship's time for all-aboard.

Getting Around

Gustavia itself is walkable, but the island has no public transport, so taxis are the way to reach beaches beyond town. A few taxis wait at the port, and some drivers offer island tours.

  • Nowhere on the island is more than about a half-hour drive away.
  • Roads are narrow, steep and winding, and the speed limit is 50 km/h across the island.
  • Some streets in Gustavia climb steeply from the harbor.

Where to Eat

Eating in St. Barthélemy is French first, with Creole and West Indian cooking alongside, and the island has more than 70 restaurants. Gustavia has restaurants serving French, Italian, American and other food around its harbor.

  • West Indian cooking often means fresh fish with steamed vegetables, and Creole dishes tend to be spicier.
  • For a quick lunch, look for the small places locals call les snacks, selling sandwiches, pizzas and salads.
  • Conch is a favorite local seafood.
  • Many of the island's gourmet restaurants are in its hotels.

Tipping and Currency

The euro is the official currency of St. Barthélemy, as in the rest of France. A tip of 10 to 15 percent is generally expected if service is not already included in the bill.

  • Check the bill to see whether service has been added before you tip.

Culture & Local Life

St. Barthélemy's language, food and customs are French Caribbean, but the island keeps its own traditions: an old local French patois on the leeward side, Creole on the windward side, and the three crowns of Sweden on its coat of arms. Most residents descend from early settlers from western France.

  • About 10,660 people lived on the island at the 2023 census, including a community of around 3,000 people of Portuguese origin.
  • Carnival runs for two weeks before Ash Wednesday in February or March and ends with a parade at Shell Beach, where an effigy of Vaval, the Carnival King, is burned.
  • The Festival of Gustavia in August includes dragnet fishing and celebrations.
  • Gustavia is a sailing center, with regattas such as the Bucket and Les Voiles de St. Barth in spring.
  • Two main churches stand in town: the Catholic church of Our Lady of the Assumption and St. Bartholomew's Anglican Church on the harbor front, built in 1855 of stone brought from St. Eustatius.

History

St. Barthélemy was French, then Swedish for almost a century, then French again, and Gustavia's name, streets and forts all date from the Swedish years. A small, dry island with few plantations, it stayed poor until tourism arrived in the 20th century.

  • French settlers, 1648: French settlers, encouraged by the French West India Company, had arrived by 1648 and began growing cacao. Carib attacks drove them out briefly in 1656.
  • Pirates and wars: The island drew pirates, including Daniel Montbars, known as the Exterminator. British forces captured it in 1744, and it returned to France in 1764.
  • Swedish rule, 1784: Louis XVI traded the island to Sweden in 1784 for trading rights in Gothenburg. The harbor town, until then called Le Carénage, was renamed Gustavia for King Gustav III, and the name appears in records from the turn of 1786 and 1787.
  • A free port: Under the Swedes, Gustavia became a neutral trading port and prospered during the wars of the late 18th century. The three forts, Oscar, Karl and Gustav, were built to guard the harbor, Fort Gustav in 1787.
  • Freedom, 1847: The last legally enslaved people on the island were freed by the Swedish state in October 1847. With little work available, many left for other islands.
  • Hard times and sale, 1850 to 1878: A hurricane in 1850 and a fire in 1852 left the town struggling. After a referendum in 1877, Sweden sold the island back to France in 1878, and it was governed as part of Guadeloupe.
  • Tourism and a new status: Islanders became French citizens with full rights in 1946, and in the decades that followed the island became a luxury destination. It left Guadeloupe in 2007 to become its own overseas collectivity of France.
  • Hurricane Irma, 2017: Irma damaged the island in September 2017, and transport and electricity were largely back by early 2018.
  • To learn more ashore: The Musée Territorial, the Wall House, at the far end of La Pointe, tells the island's history under French, Swedish and British rule with photographs, maps and paintings.

Traveling with Family

A family day in Gustavia can stay on foot: a walk around the harbor to see the yachts, a short climb to a fort ruin, and a swim at Shell Beach at the edge of town. Bring sun protection and water for the climbs.

  • Younger children: Shell Beach, Anse de Grand Galet, is close to the port, and hunting for shells on the sand keeps small children busy.
  • School age: The ruins of Fort Gustav, from 1787, stand by the lighthouse on the hill north of town, with remains of ramparts, a guardhouse, a munitions store and a wood-burning oven. The site of Fort Karl, above Shell Beach, is also popular with hikers.
  • Teenagers: St. Jean Bay, a taxi ride east of town, has watersports and surf.
  • Indoors: The Wall House museum on La Pointe tells the island's history with old maps, photographs and paintings.
  • Sun and slopes: Some streets climb steeply from the harbor, so pace the walking for younger legs.

Shopping

Gustavia is a duty-free town, and the shopping right in front of the port is luxury fashion and jewelry, with international designer houses alongside smaller boutiques. The island's economy rests on tourism and duty-free retail.

  • High-end boutiques are an important source of income for the island.
  • Prices are in euros, so check the exchange rate on any big purchase.
  • Know the price at home before you buy jewelry or watches.

Beaches

Shell Beach, Anse de Grand Galet, is the beach within walking distance of the port, at the southwest edge of Gustavia and covered in seashells. The island's other beaches are a short taxi ride away.

  • Shell Beach was eroded by Hurricane Lenny in 1999 and topped up with new sand in 2000.
  • St. Jean Bay, east of Gustavia facing the airport, is set up for watersports and has surf.
  • Anse du Colombier can be reached only on foot or by boat.
  • Anse de Grande Saline is popular with nudists, and the salt ponds behind it attract tropical birds.
  • The long beach at Lorient has shade and is quieter than St. Jean.

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