Cartagena: Colombia's Colonial Walled City on the Caribbean

The cruise terminal (Terminal de Cruceros de Cartagena) is in the Manga district, about 3 km from the old city walls. Taxis are plentiful at the terminal — the ride to the Puerta del Reloj (Clock Tower Gate, the main entrance to the walled city) takes about 15 minutes.

**The walled city (Ciudad Amurallada):** The historic center divides into El Centro (the main plaza district, with the Cathedral and the Palace of the Inquisition) and San Diego (a quieter, more residential quarter). Both are beautiful and explorable on foot. The walls themselves are wide enough to walk along and offer excellent views over the bay.

**Castillo San Felipe de Barajas:** The massive 17th-century fortress on Cerro San Lázaro is the largest Spanish colonial fortification in the Americas. The network of tunnels inside is extraordinary. Allow 2 hours and wear good shoes — the ramps are steep.

**Rosario Islands:** An archipelago of coral islands about 45 km offshore with clear water and good snorkeling. Fast boat excursions run from the cruise terminal area — typical trip is 3–4 hours including transit. The water at Playa Blanca on Isla Barú (a peninsula, not an island) is famously beautiful, though the beach has become quite touristy.

Cartagena was founded in 1533 by Pedro de Heredia and quickly became Spain's primary port for shipping Andean gold and silver back to Seville. Its wealth made it the most attacked city in the Americas — it was sacked by Francis Drake in 1586, by the French buccaneer Pointis in 1697, and endured a four-month British assault under Admiral Vernon in 1741 that repelled with far fewer defenders than Vernon expected (the Colombian hero Blas de Lezo commanded the defense).

The massive fortifications were built gradually over two centuries in response to these threats. The walls, bastions, and Castillo San Felipe represent the largest and most expensive military construction project Spain undertook in the Americas.

Cartagena declared independence from Spain in 1811 and was one of the first Colombian cities to do so. Gabriel García Márquez was born in the nearby town of Aracataca and is intimately associated with Cartagena — his house in the old city is a museum and many settings from his novels are recognizable in the streets.

**Taxi from the terminal:** Taxis are metered or fixed-rate. From the cruise terminal to the old city runs about COP 15,000–20,000 (roughly USD $4–5). Agree on a price before getting in if the meter is not running.

**Walking in the old city:** Once you are inside the walls, everything is walkable. The walled city is about 1.5 km across at its widest point. Wear comfortable shoes and carry water — the heat and humidity are significant.

**Horse-drawn carriages (coches):** Traditional carriages are available for tours of the historic center. Rates are negotiated — agree before boarding.

**Boat to the Rosario Islands:** Lanchas (fast boats) depart from the Muelle Turístico near the cruise terminal. Organized excursions from the ship are more convenient; independent travelers can also purchase tickets at the dock.

Colombia has a modest tipping culture with an important note: many restaurants add a 10% propina (tip) to the bill automatically — called a servicio. You can decline it but it is standard.

- **Restaurants:** 10% if not already added, or accept the propina. - **Taxis:** Round up or add 10% for good service. - **Guides at San Felipe and the old city:** USD $5–10 per person for a licensed guide. - **Currency:** Colombian pesos (COP). USD is accepted in tourist areas at a slightly unfavorable rate — having some pesos is useful for taxis and small purchases. Cards are accepted in most restaurants in the old city.