Cartagena: Colonial Colombia's Showpiece City

The cruise terminal at Cartagena is at the Muelle de la Bodeguita, inside the old harbor wall — which means you walk off the ship and into the walled city within minutes. The Ciudad Amurallada (walled city) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site: 16th-century Spanish fortifications enclosing a city of pastel townhouses, bougainvillea, and narrow cobblestone streets. This is one of the most photogenic ports in the Caribbean. Temperatures are 30°C+ and humid; plan accordingly.

The walled city is compact and walkable — everything inside the walls is within 20 minutes' walk. Horse-drawn carriages are available for a circuit of the walls ($25–40 for a 45-minute tour, negotiate before you board). Electric tuk-tuks cover more ground for a similar price. Taxis outside the walled city use meters; negotiate for trips to Bocagrande (the modern beach strip, 10 minutes south) or the Castillo de San Felipe. Colombian pesos are the currency; USD and credit cards are accepted at most tourist-facing establishments.

Colombian pesos (COP). The 10% service charge is standard at sit-down restaurants — called propina, shown on the bill. Additional tipping is optional but appreciated. USD is widely accepted in tourist areas at approximately market rate. ATMs dispense pesos. Avoid street money changers.

Cartagena's food is underrated. Ceviche de camarón (shrimp ceviche with coconut milk) is the local version — lighter and sweeter than Peruvian ceviche. Arepa de choclo (fresh corn cake with cheese) is the ubiquitous street food. El Boliche Cevicheria in the walled city is the most respected ceviché restaurant. La Cevichería — famous from a 2011 Anthony Bourdain visit — remains excellent. For a full meal, La Vitrola on Calle Baloco is the classic upscale option in a beautiful colonial house. Fruit vendors selling corozo juice and totumo agua fresca near the clock tower are worth stopping for.

The walled city IS the activity. Walk the top of the city walls (free, accessible at several points) for views of the old harbor and the Caribbean. The clock tower (Torre del Reloj) at the main gate is the orientation point. The Centro neighborhood is all colonial architecture with no cars. The Getsemaní neighborhood (just outside the walls, once rough, now gentrified) has street art and the best local bars. Castillo San Felipe de Barajas ($25,000 COP/$6, 10 minutes by taxi) is a 17th-century Spanish fortress with tunnel systems that visitors can walk through — excellent. Don't skip it for a second circuit of the walled city.