French Polynesia
Bora Bora, French Polynesia
Bora Bora, French Polynesia: Volcanic Peak, Turquoise Lagoon, and Overwater Bungalows
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The lagoon — encompassing both the island and the ring of motu (coral islets) on the outer reef — is the central experience. Lagoon tours by outrigger or motorized boat visit the coral gardens where blacktip reef sharks and stingrays congregate in shallow sand pockets, a product of decades of feeding by the tour boats that has made the animals habituated to human presence. Snorkeling in the shark and ray area is done while the boat anchors and passengers enter the water; the sharks are small (1-1.5 metres) and behave as they would around food rather than people, which is the point. The coral gardens at the outer reef edge have more diversity than the sandy areas and are part of most full-day lagoon circuits.
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The perimeter of the main island can be driven in a 4WD vehicle or on an ATV in about two hours, covering the range of coastal scenery from the resort side (east coast) to the less-developed western and northern shores. The American gun emplacements from World War II, installed at Fitiiu Point and other coastal positions after the fall of France made French Polynesia strategically significant, are scattered along the perimeter road and are accessible without organized tours. Mount Otemanu's summit is not accessible by trail for ordinary hikers — the volcanic pinnacle requires technical climbing — but the valley hike with a guide reaches the base and gives ground-level views of the peak from the interior. Most operators offering the valley hike are based in Vaitape.
Matira Beach, at the island's southern tip, is Bora Bora's only public beach and one of the finest in French Polynesia — a long, gradual-entry white sand shore with calm lagoon water protected by the outer motu. Snorkeling directly off the beach over the coral scattered in the shallows is possible without a boat. The Matira Point area has several restaurants, both overwater establishments associated with the nearby resorts (which are open to non-guests for lunch with reservation) and land-based options serving fish and French Polynesian food at lower prices. Overwater bungalow lunch at one of the established resorts — Four Seasons, InterContinental, or St. Regis — is the aspirational Bora Bora experience for many cruise passengers; advance reservation is required and prices are at the high end of French Polynesian dining.
The motu Piti Aau on the southeastern reef edge has the best snorkeling for soft coral variety accessible from Vaitape by organized tour. The waters off the outer reef are popular for shark diving (including lemon and tiger sharks in deeper water) operated by the local dive operators based at Vaitape, though these are advanced-level activities not suited to casual snorkelers. The town of Vaitape itself is small — a waterfront street of shops, a bank with ATM, a few pearl jewelry outlets selling the Tahitian black pearls that are Bora Bora's main retail draw — and most activity on call days is on the lagoon rather than on land.
Good to know
Overview
Large ships enter Bora Bora's lagoon through Teavanui Pass, the only opening in the reef, on the west side of the main island. Vaitape, the main village and the island's administrative center, faces that channel, and your ship will tell you how passengers go ashore and when the last boat or tender returns.
- Vaitape is the only town of any size on the island and the landing point for the boat from the airport.
- One sealed road, about 31 kilometers long, circles the main island, and the mountainous interior has no roads.
- The island is about 230 kilometers northwest of Papeete on Tahiti.
Bora Bora on Your Own
Bora Bora is an easy island to explore without a tour, because everything runs along the one coastal road. A simple day is a look around Vaitape, a ride south to Matira Beach for swimming and snorkeling, and a return in good time for the last boat to the ship.
- Around Vaitape: Look for black pearls, the island's specialty, in the shops and galleries.
- Matira Beach: The island's largest beach is at the southern tip of the main island. You can snorkel straight from the shore, and in the shallows fish gather around you within seconds.
- Getting there: A single bus goes halfway around the island and back about once an hour, and taxis are available. Bicycles, scooters and cars can also be rented; the full loop takes about an hour by car, or two with stops.
- Sun: The sun is strong, so reapply sunscreen often, especially if you spend a long time in the water.
- Getting back on time: All-aboard is usually about 30 minutes before sailing, and your ship posts the exact time and the time of the last boat back. A ship will not wait for passengers touring on their own, so leave Matira with time to spare.
Getting Around
Public transport on Bora Bora is limited to a single bus that runs halfway around the island and back roughly once an hour. Taxis, rental bicycles, scooters and cars cover the rest, and the 31-kilometer coastal road can be driven in about an hour.
- Some activity and restaurant operators offer pick-ups, so ask when you book.
- The central mountains are steep and roadless, and guided jeep tours climb the rough tracks to the World War II gun sites.
- The airport is on a separate islet, Motu Mute, linked to Vaitape by boat.
Food and Drink
Food on Bora Bora is French and Polynesian, and almost everything is expensive, since the island itself produces little beyond fish and coconuts. Roulottes, the food trucks where locals eat, are the budget choice, and they gather in the car park in the center of Vaitape.
- The roulottes start serving from about 17:00, so they suit only a late all-aboard. Check before you go.
- Poisson cru, raw fish marinated in lemon juice and coconut milk, is the dish you will find across French Polynesia.
- Ma'a tinito is a Chinese-Polynesian dish of pork, kidney beans, Chinese cabbage and macaroni.
- Groceries cost more on Bora Bora than on Tahiti.
Tipping and Currency
Tipping is not a custom in French Polynesia. It is starting to appear in some restaurants and hotels on the larger islands, but in general it is not expected.
- Prices are in CFP francs, written F, a currency pegged to the euro.
- Some businesses that serve visitors, such as taxis and souvenir sellers, accept US dollars.
Culture and Customs
French and Tahitian are the main languages, and most people who work with visitors understand English well. Islanders describe their outlook with the phrase "aita pea pea", meaning "no worries".
- About 10,600 people lived on Bora Bora at the 2017 census.
- Traditional songs and dances remain part of island life.
- Approaching whales and other marine mammals is regulated, so ask your boat operator about the rules.
- Vaitape has a Catholic church and a Protestant temple, which dates from the 1940s.
A Brief History
Bora Bora was settled by Polynesian voyagers in the first millennium and was a powerful independent kingdom until France annexed it in 1888. In World War II it became an American supply base, and that base's airstrip later gave the island its airport.
- Settlement: Polynesian settlers reached the island around the 3rd century.
- Rival clans: Island history was shaped by two clans, one around Faanui and the other around the marae of Vaiotaha, long one of the most important temple sites in Polynesia.
- European contact: Jacob Roggeveen made the first European sighting in 1722, and James Cook sighted the island on 29 July 1769, guided by the Tahitian navigator Tupaia.
- Missionaries: Protestant missionaries arrived in 1820.
- Annexation, 1888: Bora Bora was an independent kingdom until 1888, when France annexed it and its last queen, Teriimaevarua III, was forced to abdicate.
- Operation Bobcat: In 1942 the United States landed nearly 7,000 soldiers to build a supply base with an oil depot, a seaplane base and an airstrip. Eight 7-inch guns were placed around the island, and no fighting ever took place here.
- After the war: The base closed on 2 June 1946. Its airstrip on Motu Mute served as French Polynesia's only international airport until Tahiti's Faa'a airport opened.
- To learn more ashore: The World War II gun emplacements and bunkers, visited on guided jeep tours, are where Bora Bora's recent history is easiest to see.
Traveling With Children
Bora Bora suits families who like the water. The lagoon is warm, Matira Beach has fish in the shallows, and swimming costs nothing, so a beach day is the simplest plan for children of any age.
- Younger children: Matira's shallow water lets small children see tropical fish close to the shore. Bring strong sunscreen and reapply it often.
- School age: Snorkeling from the beach at Matira needs no boat. The lagoon's underwater life includes rays and sharks, so snorkelers may see them.
- Teenagers: Hiring bicycles to ride part of the coastal road, or a guided jeep tour up to the wartime guns, makes a more active day.
- Food: Restaurants are expensive, and buying picnic food at the grocery stores in Vaitape is one way to keep costs down.
Shopping
Black pearls are Bora Bora's specialty: the Tahitian black pearl is grown in the lagoons of French Polynesia. The island has art galleries, studios and shops selling jewelry and black pearls.
- Vaitape has a general grocery store near the center and a supermarket on the road north out of town.
- A smaller grocery store near Matira Beach has a more limited choice.
- Prices are in CFP francs, written F.
Beaches
Matira Beach, at the southern tip of the main island, is Bora Bora's largest beach and the one to aim for on a port day. Beaches on the island are small and rarely crowded.
- Swimming and snorkeling in the lagoon are free.
- The sea can reach 30°C, and the sun is strong, so reapply sunscreen often.
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